Red wines with spice. Sometimes I cannot tell them apart.
It is true that many wines have a spicy characteristic. I have had quite a few lately. Let’s talk about red wines. Remember,white wines can be spicy as well. Just look at the name Gewurztraminer. Gerwurtz in German means spicy. Traminer is the grape.
Some spicy varietals include Zinfandel, Syrah, Mourvedre and Malbec to name a few. But what has me really concerned are old Burgundies and Merlots, especially from France. Typically, these French wines have a minerally quality. They are not as fruit forward as say wines from California, but they indded have that high acid thing going on. Great food wines.
But back to spice.
It seems that the wines that have a spicy characteristic cut through the fatty things, like lamb, soft cheeses and even decadent chocolate desserts. But it becomes an extreme challenge to identify these wines in blind tasting. I think and look for black pepper in the finish of a jammy Zinfandel. I look for white pepper and plum in a Syrah or most other Rhone varietals. An old red Burgundy is a challenge. Age makes the taste change, takng away the fruit and letting other aspects of the wine emerge.
Wines with spice, such as Syrah blends tend to age well. It takes sometimes a few years to make that wine calm down, become approachable and ready to drink. But again, more age equals less fuit. An aged wine like an Hermitage from France is such a sublime thing.
So I have come to the conclusion that tasting a wine blind, other than to understand what a classic varietal’s characteristics are is the only good use for the excercise. But it is most assurdely important to know what a wine should taste like. Winemakers from all over the world are now trying to get the big fruit prevelant in California wines. But at the same time, they want to balance the acid and minerality so the wine pairs well with food. The other area is to try and do all of this and not have the wine scream with alcohol. Many California and Australian wines are high in alcohol,compared to the same classic wine from say France or even Spain.
So try to pick up a few spicy reds and do not forget to throw in a Spanish Rioja for laughs. (By the way, Rioja, or Tempranillo from Spain is very good and typically a greatwine value). Enjoy this catagory of red wine with grilled lamb or some soft cheeses. See which stands out the most to you. Remember, many wines can have a spicy finish, but the one you like best is the basis for your future wine experiences. Do not be afraid to experiment. And keep uncorking happiness.
I am a Certified Sommelier and the owner of California Taste Fine in Laguna Niguel and can be reached through this blog or at kspears@caltaste.com.
