Adam Carruth and Carruth Cellars

Adam Carruth is a nice, unassuming guy. He is that neighborhood friend you had growing up . But when you meet him and talk to him, he has one overriding passion: Wine. You would never guess that he owns a winery and makes 17 different wines.

Adam makes a large number of wines in his north San Diego facility at Solana Beach. He buys grapes from all over California and turns them into solid, good wines at very reasonable prices. At California Taste Fine Wine in Laguna Niguel, we just had a tasting with a few of his varietals. The place was packed and mood boisterous.

We started off with his 2007 Lake County red Hills Sauvignon Blanc. This is a lean, crisp wine packed with grapefruit, citrus and lots of acid. A food wine, this Sauvignon Blanc does not scream New Zealand. And that is a good thing. It reflects its California roots with the upfront fruit and the richness that many golden state-wide wines have. A smooth finish with this one.

Next up was the 2007 Barbera. This varietal, originally from Italy, grows well throughout California. This wine hails from Clear Lake and has a rich velvety mouthfeel with plenty of black and red fruit characteristics. Wen you are unsure what to serve with pasta and red sauce or the fully loaded pizza, this is a fun choice. And this wine is low in tannins.

Adam sometimes takes a bit of his wines and makes what he calls “Friends Blend.”  The 2007 blend has Zinfandel, Cabernet , Malbec and Petit Sirah. This is a perfect red table wine and it is another very smooth finishing wine.

Next was the Yolo County Tempranillo. It seems that this spicy finishing wine has become the favorite in the store. One of our employees likes this the day after Thanksgiving with a perfectly made turkey sandwich. As for me, I think the fruit and earthiness are a perfect match to a Chile Relleno. Many would prefer beer, but the red does not amplify the heat of the chili.

Adam goes to Dry Creek in Sonoma for his 2007 Zinfandel. This is not a big, heavy fruit bomb loaded with alcohol. rather it is nice example of a medium bodied wine that has a long finish with those tastes of blackberry and spice that are the hallmarks of a Zinfandel. This is a wine I like to pour at BBQs and with a steak.

Malbec is one of my favorite grapes. I feel I was ahead of the curve on this one, enjoying Malbecs twenty years ago, before most people realized it is grape often used in top Bordeaux. the 2007 Carruth Malbec has an intense fruit flavor and log finish. It is another wine to pair with BBQ or even a slow simmered pot roast. The grapes for his wine come from the St. Olaf vineyard in Lake County. This is the same vineyard that the Barbera comes from.

The 2007 Syrah is another Sonoma wine. Syrah is often overlooked  by wine buyers. This Syrah is big and plummy with a finish of black pepper. Syrah is one of those very food friendly wines, that once you have a good one, memories of Cabernet Sauvignon fade away. Syrah is the next big thing one the wine scene, or so I have been told. People need to get out and try a bottle of Syrah with their favorite meal. It will open the eyes to other possibilities.

The Red Hills of Lake County are covered in grape vines. Some of those are Cabernet Sauvignon, where Adam sources his grapes for his 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. The vines struggle in the volcanic soil and produce wines with blackberries, bing and sour cherry and tobacco/mocha notes. This is a full-bodied red with minimal tannins and a long, smooth finish. The acid and fruit is very well balanced, making this a definite go to Cabernet Sauvignon.

We finished the tasting with Carruth’s 2007 Paso Robles Petit Sirah. This is a rich,dark wine that is good with roasts and osso bucco as well as say a chocolate dessert. Made for the red wine drinker who enjoys a wine that stains the glass, this a big red.

Adam makes a number of other wines including a two different Ports, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and a Nebbiolo. He is also experimenting and vinifying the first ever Flor, a crossing grape from the University of Davis, California. Adam likes his wine., when people enjoy his wine, he says they are Uncorking happiness. Me, I just think they are opening a good bottle of wine.

Super (Bowl) Wines

The big game is about an hour away and I have been asked all week: Wine Boy, what are you going to drink during the game? I enjoy big, heavy beers, so a t first I thought a nice dark beer would go down well. But then I said. ” I have a nice collection of wine. Why not use something there.”

So then I thought, “What wine goes with super bowl food?” So many are having Southern themed parties in honor of the New Orléans Saints. But when in Indianapolis, what would a Colt’s fan eat?”

So American themed food it is. But tonight there will be potatoes made a few ways, braised chicken and a vegetable or two. And of course chips and salsa. So this now becomes a challenge much like a Thanksgiving dinner. Red wine with fruit? Spice? Light? Heavy? Cabernet Sauvignon?Zinfandel?

So I think that a big red is order for the big game. I am not sure what it will be. So I am about to put on my miners hat, turn on the little light and see what pops off the  rack. I look forward to hearing from a lot of you to see what wine or beer was enjoyed for the super bowl.

But remember on the first Saturday of May, it is always mint Julips. No Kentucky Derby would be complete without them. So get comfortable on the couch and Uncork some Happiness. I hope your team wins.

Spicy Wines?

Red wines with spice. Sometimes I cannot tell them apart.

It is true that many wines have a spicy characteristic. I have had quite a few lately. Let’s talk about red wines. Remember,white wines can be spicy as well. Just look at the name Gewurztraminer. Gerwurtz in German means spicy. Traminer is the grape.

Some spicy varietals include Zinfandel, Syrah, Mourvedre and Malbec to name a few. But what has me really concerned are old Burgundies and Merlots, especially from France. Typically, these French wines have a minerally quality. They are not as fruit forward as say wines from California, but they indded have that high acid thing going on. Great food wines.

But back to spice.

It seems that the wines that have a spicy characteristic cut through the fatty things, like lamb, soft cheeses and even decadent chocolate desserts. But it becomes an extreme challenge to identify these wines in blind tasting. I think and look for black pepper in the finish of a jammy Zinfandel. I look for white pepper and plum in a Syrah or most other Rhone varietals. An old red Burgundy is a challenge. Age makes the taste change, takng away the fruit and letting other aspects of the wine emerge. 

Wines with spice, such as Syrah blends tend to age well. It takes sometimes a few years to make that wine calm down, become approachable and ready to drink. But again, more age equals less fuit. An aged wine like an Hermitage from France is such a sublime thing.

So I have come to the conclusion that tasting a wine blind, other than to understand what a classic varietal’s characteristics are is the only good use for the excercise. But it is most assurdely important to know what a wine should taste like. Winemakers from all over the world are now trying to get the big fruit prevelant in California wines. But at the same time, they want to balance the acid and minerality so the wine pairs well with food. The other area is to try and do all of this and not have the wine scream with alcohol. Many California and Australian wines are high in alcohol,compared to the same classic wine from say France or even Spain.

So try to pick up a few spicy reds and do not forget to throw in a Spanish Rioja for laughs. (By the way, Rioja, or Tempranillo from Spain is very good and typically a greatwine value). Enjoy this catagory of red wine with grilled lamb or some soft cheeses. See which stands out the most to you. Remember, many wines can have a spicy finish, but the one you like best is the basis for your future wine experiences. Do not be afraid to experiment. And keep uncorking happiness.

I am a Certified Sommelier and the owner of California Taste Fine in Laguna Niguel and can be reached through this blog or at kspears@caltaste.com.

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