Adam Carruth and Carruth Cellars

Adam Carruth is a nice, unassuming guy. He is that neighborhood friend you had growing up . But when you meet him and talk to him, he has one overriding passion: Wine. You would never guess that he owns a winery and makes 17 different wines.

Adam makes a large number of wines in his north San Diego facility at Solana Beach. He buys grapes from all over California and turns them into solid, good wines at very reasonable prices. At California Taste Fine Wine in Laguna Niguel, we just had a tasting with a few of his varietals. The place was packed and mood boisterous.

We started off with his 2007 Lake County red Hills Sauvignon Blanc. This is a lean, crisp wine packed with grapefruit, citrus and lots of acid. A food wine, this Sauvignon Blanc does not scream New Zealand. And that is a good thing. It reflects its California roots with the upfront fruit and the richness that many golden state-wide wines have. A smooth finish with this one.

Next up was the 2007 Barbera. This varietal, originally from Italy, grows well throughout California. This wine hails from Clear Lake and has a rich velvety mouthfeel with plenty of black and red fruit characteristics. Wen you are unsure what to serve with pasta and red sauce or the fully loaded pizza, this is a fun choice. And this wine is low in tannins.

Adam sometimes takes a bit of his wines and makes what he calls “Friends Blend.”  The 2007 blend has Zinfandel, Cabernet , Malbec and Petit Sirah. This is a perfect red table wine and it is another very smooth finishing wine.

Next was the Yolo County Tempranillo. It seems that this spicy finishing wine has become the favorite in the store. One of our employees likes this the day after Thanksgiving with a perfectly made turkey sandwich. As for me, I think the fruit and earthiness are a perfect match to a Chile Relleno. Many would prefer beer, but the red does not amplify the heat of the chili.

Adam goes to Dry Creek in Sonoma for his 2007 Zinfandel. This is not a big, heavy fruit bomb loaded with alcohol. rather it is nice example of a medium bodied wine that has a long finish with those tastes of blackberry and spice that are the hallmarks of a Zinfandel. This is a wine I like to pour at BBQs and with a steak.

Malbec is one of my favorite grapes. I feel I was ahead of the curve on this one, enjoying Malbecs twenty years ago, before most people realized it is grape often used in top Bordeaux. the 2007 Carruth Malbec has an intense fruit flavor and log finish. It is another wine to pair with BBQ or even a slow simmered pot roast. The grapes for his wine come from the St. Olaf vineyard in Lake County. This is the same vineyard that the Barbera comes from.

The 2007 Syrah is another Sonoma wine. Syrah is often overlooked  by wine buyers. This Syrah is big and plummy with a finish of black pepper. Syrah is one of those very food friendly wines, that once you have a good one, memories of Cabernet Sauvignon fade away. Syrah is the next big thing one the wine scene, or so I have been told. People need to get out and try a bottle of Syrah with their favorite meal. It will open the eyes to other possibilities.

The Red Hills of Lake County are covered in grape vines. Some of those are Cabernet Sauvignon, where Adam sources his grapes for his 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. The vines struggle in the volcanic soil and produce wines with blackberries, bing and sour cherry and tobacco/mocha notes. This is a full-bodied red with minimal tannins and a long, smooth finish. The acid and fruit is very well balanced, making this a definite go to Cabernet Sauvignon.

We finished the tasting with Carruth’s 2007 Paso Robles Petit Sirah. This is a rich,dark wine that is good with roasts and osso bucco as well as say a chocolate dessert. Made for the red wine drinker who enjoys a wine that stains the glass, this a big red.

Adam makes a number of other wines including a two different Ports, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and a Nebbiolo. He is also experimenting and vinifying the first ever Flor, a crossing grape from the University of Davis, California. Adam likes his wine., when people enjoy his wine, he says they are Uncorking happiness. Me, I just think they are opening a good bottle of wine.

Valentine Wines, Part IV

When it comes to the day of romance, one thing gets mentioned first: Champagne or is it Chocolate. Really, it is Champagne. It can be sweet or dry and is produced from a number of grapes and styles from around the world. The bubbles tickle and delight the senses. Champagne might possible be the best food pairing alcoholic beverage on the planet. Just try a dry one with Sushi.

For me, French Champagne is it. I like the sparkle, the small integrated bubbles that are part of the wine. When you have a still wine and inject carbon dioxide into it, the bubbles are not part of the wine and they are huge. They make the texture of the wine all wrong.

So what about Prosecco and Cava. Both are very nice and have their uses. The Italian Prosecco is really gaining in popularity,both for its easy drinking nature, relatively low alcohol and of course it’s very friendly pricing. Zardetto is a good Prosecco producer. By the way, Prosecco is perhaps the perfect early morning wine with a omlette or perhaps shired eggs. (Shired eggs are baked eggs with cream). And it pairs very well with bagels, cream cheese and smoked salmon.

Spanish Cava is the wonderful sparkling wine primarily from the Penedes region of Spain. That is just south of Barcelona. Made with Xarello, Macebo and Chardonnay primarily, these are very good wines  and value priced as well. The Spanish Cavas have a bold mouthfeel and can be very dry. That makes these a good choice for pairing with earthy and especially spicy food. Cavas can get pricy, but not like the sparklers of France.

And do not forget about Sekt, German sparkling wine.

Tips on storage, opening (always away from people) and pouring to come later.

Sparkling wine is made all over France. I just had a Cremant de Limoux. It was amazing. But it was not Champagne. only those wines coming from the Champagne region can be called Champagne. I also had a sparkling Rose from Burgundy. It was made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes and was fantastic. Light, dry and crisp, it was a perfect way to usher in the new year. Again not a Champagne.

When it comes to actual wines from the Champagne region, I prefer Rose Champagnes. Those are the pink ones. They tend to have a bit more flavor than many others. At least for me. Blanc de Noirs, or those sparkling wines made with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier are also among the tops for me. Many Champagnes, due to their long aging have a biscuity /yeasty taste which I am not fond of. Blanc de Blancs, or Champagnes made from strictly Chardonnay can be very good. One vintner I like is Henriot. They consistently have absolutely incredible bottles. I am also like Krug. But those have become so expensive, I just want to imagine I can still drink them.

The whole idea of Champagne for Valentines is the romantic look and feel of those long tapered glasses, the rising bubbles and longing looks you get from your Valentine. Champagne is probably the most romantic beverage as celebrated in movies and television. But it is also the drink of royalty. And when having a glass or two, you feel rather royal.

A very  long time ago, a friend said that the bubbles went right to her head. She said she loved Champagne and it made her feel free. I like Champagne and it makes me feel happy. Especially when I uncork  it.

Valentines Wines, PArt I

Sunday is Valentines Day (and Chinese New Years) . Both events are followed by Mardi Gras on the 16th. So there are many wine drinking opportunities ahead. But the most important day might be Sunday, with your  sweetie.

The first thing to consider is: What does she like. Chardonnay. Pinot Noir. Syrah. Cabernet Sauvignon. So take note of what she likes to drink and expand from there. Also, chocolate is big on Valentines. Pair it with Petit Verdot or perhaps a juicy Merlot. (For more on red wine and chocolate, see my earlier post).

But today I want to concentrate on two varietals that I think are great for Valentines. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. These two varietals deliver incredible tastes and many varied styles.

Chardonnay is the number one selling varietal in the United States. It can be dry and minerally or fat and creamy and everything in between. Many sommeliers and wine professionals have jumped on the unoaked Chardonnay band wagon. These are wines that are steely and crisp, with lemon/lime overtones. These wines have a light feel and tend to have a long finish as the acid is up front n the wine. They are great to pair with light food dishes such as fish and seafood dinners.

I think that Chardonnay from the heart of Chardonnay country, yes, Burgundy, France fit the bill. Especially Chablis. Because of the unique Kimmeridigian clay/chalk soil, those wines have a minerally feel and great fruit. Aged in neutral oak barrels, these crisp whites have a very unique taste and flavor. Do not mix this up with Gallo Chablis in a large jug. They are very different wines. The jug wine might give you headache, the French wine might give you romance. And if you want to impress your Valentine, go French.

I tend to like Chardonnays that are aged in oak and have aged on their lees. Lees are the yeast and other particulates left over from the vinification, and when stirred up (buttonage) they add that creamy texture to the wine. This is the wine that when paired with boiled or grilled lobster and drawn butter is a match made in well, it is just fantastic. And cooking a lobster is easy. Be sure to get them as fresh as possible. Write me for cooking methods and the incredible grilled lobster with crab stuffing recipe. Topped with saffron beurre blanc.

Same can be said for Pinot Noir. The great red of Burgundy, there are many different styles. This will also go well with fish and seafood a s well as just about anything else. A nice earthy red from Beaune or Pommard is always good. An Oregon Pinot, sure. A fruity one from the Russian River in Sonoma, yes. Santa Rita Hills, New Zealand, Pinot Nero from Italy. You will not go wrong. But there are amazing Pinot Noirs from all over the world. Romania is the third largest Pinot Noir producing country after France and the United States. Do not be afraid to ask your favorite retailer, such as California Taste Fine Wine, for advice on any wine and wine style. Think about a food pairing and what

Pinot Noir is the wine of great triumph and great heart-break, When this thin-skinned, finicky grape is made well, the world is in sync, when it is thin and runny, not so much. And be prepared to pay a bit for a good one. But it is worth it. I could go on for days about these two varietals, but I encourage you  grab a bottle or two and see for yourself. If you have not Uncorked Happiness, we wine retailers have not done our job.

Cleaning Wine Glasses

Clean glasses are essentail to enjoying wine. One customer at California Taste Fine Wine had said he was drinking Chardonnay and it was bubbly like champagne. He had this happen with three bottles of wine. The taste and smell were not off, but it seemed unusual. I asked about the glasses, since he had brought an open bottle back to the store and we used our glasses. No bubbles.

We found out that the dish washer had broken and they were hand washing everything. Not a bad thing, but the y were not rinsing the glasses very well, leaving a small trace of soap residue in the glass. So a very hot wash/rinse is essential for clean glasses.

So let’s spend a few moments talking about washing wine glasses. First, you want o not use soap if at possible. Most glasses get really dirty on the outside, where people touch them. If you do want to use soap, use a mild soap and the least amount possible. Be sure to rinse the glass thoroughly. Do not forgot to wash the base and the stem. If there are lipstick smudges, you need to gently roll the edge of the glass around your thump and for finger. It will take a few rolls to get it off, but it has to go.

The tricky part is drying the glass. Most people say that when they break a glass, it is when they are drying it. So take these words to heart: Do not dry the glass by twisting the stem. The point where the stem meets the bowl is the weakest point of the glass. do not put pressure on the stem. Twirl the whole glass around a few time when drying. Use a linen cloth as opposed to cotton. Cotton leaves fibers which can affect taste and appearance of wine. If using paper towels. Do not get them overly wet as they then tend to require more pressure to dry and then there is a greater chance of breakage.

Store clean glasses with the bowl side down so that dust and other particulates do not get into the glass. Before service, try and gently wipe the glass with a clean cloth, again not cotton. If there are smudges, an easy way to clean the glass is to wipe with a clean cloth after applying a bit of steam to the glass.

If using a dishwasher, the best way to clean glasses is to add a cup of white wine vinegar to the dish washer. The vinegar prevents soap scum form attaching to the glasses. But you also need to make sure the glass’s base is clean as well. Nothing is as depressing as getting a dirty glass with a nice amount of good wine.

I just washed about 70 glasses from last night’s tasting of Ballentine and St. Clement. Everyone had a nice clean glass and we had plenty to choose from. It was an event where we really did Uncork Happiness.

Cakebread vs. Layercake, Who took the Cake?

Saturday, it was cold, wet and raining. But a small group braved the weather and gathered at California Taste Fine Wine, prepared to determine which wine they liked better. The concept of the tasting was to pit Cakebread Cellars against Layercake and few other random wines. If you are not familiar with Cakebread or Layercake, check out the links. But Just a quick word about Layercake: The wines are produced by the same people that make the 100 Acres wines in Napa. Extremely high end and very tasty. And the reputation of Cakebread is legendary among wine drinkers.

We started by pitting Cakebread Chardonnay (2008) against Clos du Val Chardonnay (2007). The Clos du Val had a sharper taste than the Cakebread. A bit more tart and not as smooth as the Cakebread. But this is just my opinion. The tasters voted and Clos du Val won by a single vote. I am not sure if price was a factor, as the Cakebread was about $20 more than the Clos du Val.

The next smack down was all about Malbec. Layercake (2008) vs. Vinorum (2005). Both are from high in the Andes near Mendoza, Argentina. Malbec is quickly gaining in popularity among wine drinkers for both big fruit, earthiness and very good prices. You can pick up great bottles of Malbec for well under $20. But in this tastng, it was very interesting as the tasters tied on which was better. This speaks to the quality of both wines and price differential was only $4. So you can’t go wrong with a nice Malbec, it seems. And for those who like an earthy wine, this will fit the bill. Just a side note, Rose of Malbec is very good as well.

The next challenge was perhaps the most interesting of all. Layercake Primitivo (2008) against Cakebread Zinfandel (2006). Primitivo is basically the same grape as Zinfandel but typically hails from Puglia in southern Italy. And yes, Zinfandel is red and is not native to California, where it seems it is the state grape. It originated in Croatia and is believed to have to California with the missionaries. But on to the tasting. The Layercake was thick and chewy, with tobbacco, black fruit, oak and a hint of earth. The Cakebread was fruitier with toasty oak and lots of finish. The tasters voted overwhelmingly for the Cakebread. I was personally torn as I thought both were exceptional.

The final challenge involved Cabernet Sauvignon. Cakebread (2006) vs. Layercake (2007). Both were rich with black cherry, blackberry, blueberry and oak, hints of cinnamon and clove. Both had a long finish. But For me, the Cakebread was a wine that needed a bit of cellaring. It was very complex, not 100% integrated yet. This is a bottle that five years from now, I will be screaming, why don’t I have a case of this? It is a wine that will surely reward the patient. The Layercake was a bit fruitier and was exceptional as well. It is the wine that is good for stunning your holiday guests. The tasters voted in favor of the Cakebread, 2 to 1. But it must be pointed out that the price differential between these two wines is about $45.

It is nice when our customers can come and vote on what they like. Most said each wine was great, but the California palette certainly showed in this tasting. The wines that were more fruit forward tended to get the nod over those that were more restrained. It would be fun to revist these same vintages in two years and see if the opinions are the same. And we would get to see just how nicely these wines are developing.

At California Taste Fine Wine, there are a number of themed tastings each week. And we believe in educating the wine buyer so they become a better consumer in both retail and when ordering wine in a restaurant. We look forward to helping you enhance your wine experience as you uncork happiness.

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