Vinspelunking

I know that you may never have heard of the term Vinspelunking. It is the idea that you are exploring your or others wine caves, looking for hidden treasure. In this case, hidden bottles. Forgotten treasures. It is a great way to relive some magical wine moments.

The tools needed to Vinspelunk are these: Corkscrew, wine glass(es) and maybe a candle. There are always a few cups and a cork screw or two in our wine cellar.

As someone who is in the business of selling wines, (California Taste Fine Wine, Laguna Niguel), I am often asked when is it time to drink a certain bottle. I too am asking myself this very question. I was recently rearranging things in the home cellar and came across a few bottles that I totally did not remember owning.

One of those was a bottle of Roussane from Reverie Winery on Diamond Mountain in Napa Valley. It is the 2005 vintage and now I am going to open it in the next few days and hope that it is okay. It seems a bit aged. It is a little dark, with hints of oxidation. Too bad it was not a screw top bottle. Screw top bottles can be stored or cellared in any position. I call that fool proof cellaring. The only concern is light, heat and vibration. The Rousanne was cellared, but not properly. It was standing up in a box. My bad.

It seems the concern is more about White Wine, Champagne and Rose. Finding an older red wine such as a Nebbiolo (Barolo, Barbaresco etc), Cabernet or Bordeaux is not so troublesome. Many of the reds have mellowed out and are drinking so well. Interestingly enough, a few of the white wines taste better with a little age on them. Especially the white Burgundies and Chablis from the 2002 vintage.

This experience has taught me that if you have a wine collection, you need to make at least two trips into the depths of the cellar a week. Vinspelunking can be a fun activity. It will be shocking what you might find. Uncork some of your own happiness.

 

 

1979 Mouton Rothschild

I am a lucky person. Recently I was invited to a party in the lovely north San Diego County town of Julian. The party, in honor of friends mother’s birthday, was a blast. Too bad it was 98 degrees that day.

On the drive from Laguna Niguel to Julian, Kim and I discovered that there are 17 wineries in the Ramona Valley. Many of them are growing and producing good wine. The irony of the trip was that of the four tasting rooms visited, we did not like a single Cabernet Sauvignon. The star was Syrah and Merlot. More on this later.

Because of the unplanned tastings, we arrived at the party well after it had started. We barely had a chance to get a plate of food as the caterers were cleaning up.

We ate, visited and all of a sudden our hostess, Ida said, try this wine. “I know you are into wine, you might enjoy this.” Ida told us the story of how she and her husband had bought the wine celebrating their daughters birth year. They bought a case, which in 1981, when the wine was released, cost about $200. For a first growth Bordeaux from Pauillac, no less. The wine has been stored properly and Ida said that since her daughter is not going to get married, she might as well enjoy the wine. She has a few bottles left.

The wine was earthy. It had a nose of stewed fruit and figs. There were slight hints of cherry and definitely tar on the nose. The wine was just beginning to lose its red color as it slowly goes to a dark, brickish color. The tannins were very soft, but the experience was incredible. The acid, earth and lingering fruit stayed with you for quite a long time. It is interesting that lately, as we have opened older wines at California Taste Fine Wine, many customers say the older wines are flat. That they lack fruit. But that is what happens as a wine ages. The fruit does die down a bit and those secondary flavors and tastes come to the front. And we constantly get asked about how long this wine can be cellared.

When drinking a 31 year old wine,what you are left with is a very smooth, supple and delicate wine. Those french know how to make a long lasting wine. Something to remember and a big thanks to Ida.

Now that is Uncorking Happiness.

Tuscan Wine and Movie Night

It is rare to have a chance to drink some high quality Italian wine. But I was afford the opportunity this weekend. And what wines they were.

I have always felt that Italian wine is perfect for any meal. Sunday, at our friend’s house, we had some roasted tri-tip, a salad and brie and basil ravioli. So we had tow bottles to enjoy with the meal.

The first was the 2003 Altessimo Brunello. Brunello, a clone of Sangiovese, comes from a small town in Tuscany. Made in limited quantities, Brunello is often considered the queen of Italian wine. (People thing Barolo is the King of Italian Wines) This bottle was no exception. Bright cherry, black cherry, nutmeg and toasty oak greeted the nose. The wine was ultra smooth./ The tannins were muted. It went down so well. We decanted the wine in breathable glass decanter. We could not wait a few hours for the wine to soften. I kept thinking about my brief visit to Tuscany and the smell of the wine and the soil was taking me back there.

This bottle was a highly rated wine and top wine from the very hot vintage of 2003.

But then we opened bottle number two. A 2000 Tiganello. This is one of the top super Tuscans made. A blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.  These wines are now becoming the most valuable wines of Italy. This was a deep red, thick rich wine that when I think about french Bordeaux, this wine is truly got more going for it. I like Bordeaux, but when drinking something like this, the intensity is almost overwhelming. This wine had just about everything right going for it.

Made by Antinori, Tiganello is one of the classic examples of the art of blending non-Italian varietals that are grown in Italy. There are a number of Super Tuscans to look for. And they seem to age very well with proper cellaring.

We were only sad that we had the one bottle. But the experience was worth it. And the Cannolis and pot du creme was a nice way to end the night.

The whole night was themed around watching Angels and Demons. It was fun to see parts of Rome and remember the plazas, statues and fountains. So plan a theme a night with some food and wine. fun will be had by all. That is how we uncork happiness.

Adam Carruth and Carruth Cellars

Adam Carruth is a nice, unassuming guy. He is that neighborhood friend you had growing up . But when you meet him and talk to him, he has one overriding passion: Wine. You would never guess that he owns a winery and makes 17 different wines.

Adam makes a large number of wines in his north San Diego facility at Solana Beach. He buys grapes from all over California and turns them into solid, good wines at very reasonable prices. At California Taste Fine Wine in Laguna Niguel, we just had a tasting with a few of his varietals. The place was packed and mood boisterous.

We started off with his 2007 Lake County red Hills Sauvignon Blanc. This is a lean, crisp wine packed with grapefruit, citrus and lots of acid. A food wine, this Sauvignon Blanc does not scream New Zealand. And that is a good thing. It reflects its California roots with the upfront fruit and the richness that many golden state-wide wines have. A smooth finish with this one.

Next up was the 2007 Barbera. This varietal, originally from Italy, grows well throughout California. This wine hails from Clear Lake and has a rich velvety mouthfeel with plenty of black and red fruit characteristics. Wen you are unsure what to serve with pasta and red sauce or the fully loaded pizza, this is a fun choice. And this wine is low in tannins.

Adam sometimes takes a bit of his wines and makes what he calls “Friends Blend.”  The 2007 blend has Zinfandel, Cabernet , Malbec and Petit Sirah. This is a perfect red table wine and it is another very smooth finishing wine.

Next was the Yolo County Tempranillo. It seems that this spicy finishing wine has become the favorite in the store. One of our employees likes this the day after Thanksgiving with a perfectly made turkey sandwich. As for me, I think the fruit and earthiness are a perfect match to a Chile Relleno. Many would prefer beer, but the red does not amplify the heat of the chili.

Adam goes to Dry Creek in Sonoma for his 2007 Zinfandel. This is not a big, heavy fruit bomb loaded with alcohol. rather it is nice example of a medium bodied wine that has a long finish with those tastes of blackberry and spice that are the hallmarks of a Zinfandel. This is a wine I like to pour at BBQs and with a steak.

Malbec is one of my favorite grapes. I feel I was ahead of the curve on this one, enjoying Malbecs twenty years ago, before most people realized it is grape often used in top Bordeaux. the 2007 Carruth Malbec has an intense fruit flavor and log finish. It is another wine to pair with BBQ or even a slow simmered pot roast. The grapes for his wine come from the St. Olaf vineyard in Lake County. This is the same vineyard that the Barbera comes from.

The 2007 Syrah is another Sonoma wine. Syrah is often overlooked  by wine buyers. This Syrah is big and plummy with a finish of black pepper. Syrah is one of those very food friendly wines, that once you have a good one, memories of Cabernet Sauvignon fade away. Syrah is the next big thing one the wine scene, or so I have been told. People need to get out and try a bottle of Syrah with their favorite meal. It will open the eyes to other possibilities.

The Red Hills of Lake County are covered in grape vines. Some of those are Cabernet Sauvignon, where Adam sources his grapes for his 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. The vines struggle in the volcanic soil and produce wines with blackberries, bing and sour cherry and tobacco/mocha notes. This is a full-bodied red with minimal tannins and a long, smooth finish. The acid and fruit is very well balanced, making this a definite go to Cabernet Sauvignon.

We finished the tasting with Carruth’s 2007 Paso Robles Petit Sirah. This is a rich,dark wine that is good with roasts and osso bucco as well as say a chocolate dessert. Made for the red wine drinker who enjoys a wine that stains the glass, this a big red.

Adam makes a number of other wines including a two different Ports, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and a Nebbiolo. He is also experimenting and vinifying the first ever Flor, a crossing grape from the University of Davis, California. Adam likes his wine., when people enjoy his wine, he says they are Uncorking happiness. Me, I just think they are opening a good bottle of wine.

Napa Reds the Next Day

It is not often that I say I love a certain wine tasting, but that was just the case this last Friday. We featured a few boutique wines from Napa and one solid Cabernet Sauvignon from Stags Leap district. All of the wines were big reds. The few I got to sample the day after the tasting were even better.

Which brings me to a slight digression. I am finding more and more that the wines in our tastings typically taste better on day two than day one. At California Taste Fine Wine, we do not decant that often before a tasting. The thinking goes, that if we are going to sell a bottle of wine, we like to have it just as you would at home. You are going to open and then just pour yourself a glass. That is kind of how we want to do the tastings. We want to mimic the home experience.

But Friday, these wines were all so good. We started with the Cornerstone Stepping Stone Cabernet Franc. I wrote a bit about the wine earlier (See my Cabernet Franc Post). Suffice to say, this was an excellent wine to start a tasting with. Then came the 2006 Clos du Val Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. This is actually a blend of a few wines, much like a Bordeaux. The trick with Clos du Val is to let them age a few years. The rewards are immense. This is a solid bottle of wine, with lots of black and red fruit and a long finish. The idea is to stock up and put a few into the cellar. Go back to the older vintages while you wait. At least that is what I do. And I recently had a 1981 Clos du Val Cabernet that was drinking beautifully.

We also tasted the Boyd 2006 Big Ranch Cuvee. This is a blend of 40% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and  15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Syrah. This is a big, luscious red blend that lingers. Aged in oak, they only made 325 cases. So this is one to collect.

We opened the Modis Operandi 2007 Vicarious Red. The tasters really liked this wine and this is another sudo Bordeaux blend were one of the grapes is Syrah. This is one of those wines that lingering in the head and on the tongue. Big fruit and a long finish. Again one of those low production wines. Only 12 barrels produced.

Hope and Grace 2006 Napa Cabernet was at first just okay. But on day two, it was absolutely incredible. The wine unwound to a lush nose of violets and Cassis, coupled with Oak and blackberry. Wow! Totally unexpected and quite a treat. And so smooth.

The JR 2005 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon was yet another sleeper. The first night, the wine should the dark fruit and a hint of the famous Rutherford dust. Rutherford dust is a special earthiness that wines get in a special are of Napa. There is an alluvial fan of dirt, dust, stone and gravel that spread out eastward from Mt. St. Helena after an eruption many thousands of years ago. Wines grown in this region have a very distinct taste. There are a few areas in Chile that are similar, but a Rutherford Cabernet is a very tasty thing. On day two, this wine was in full swing. If you like Napa Cabernets, this wine would be at the top of your list.

We finished the tasting with the Cornerstone 2005 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Only 500 cases were produced of this black beauty. It is a very concentrated wine with plum, cherry and mocha. This was a very smooth wine and on day two, it was absolutely spectacular.

I have often thought that there are amazing values in the $30-$60 range of wines out of Napa. These wines certainly prove that point. But what I am really discovering is that so many wines are tasting better the second day. So now I think I need to open two bottles at once. I need to enjoy half of each and wait for the rewards that come with drinking the wines on day two.

And yes, this is indeed happening with a number of whites as well. You will have to experiment for yourself, but the journey is well worth it. Ask your local retailer for help in finding these boutique wines. Great reds from premier wine areas such as Napa do not have to cost $100 or more. Value is what tastes good and delivers. These wines did just that.

So think like me and open two at once. Swirl them around your mouth and enjoy as they go down like silk. Then cork them as you save save some of each for the next day. Let me know if I am not absolutely correct.  If you cannot wait, decant or use breathable glass. So now you are Uncorking Happiness, times two.

Cabernet Franc

So many people have gotten into the habit of calling most reds, Cabernet. Not only are there hundreds of red grapes, but in the Cabernet family, there are quite a few as well. But the parent of all Cabernet Sauvignon and their ilk is Cabernet Franc.

It is said that Cabernet Franc was crossed with Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon was born. But dad is still around and asking for a little respect. Cabernet Franc is a major player in the Loire Valley of France and is a major grape in Bordeaux, France as well. Most of the right bank Bordeaux, that is the ones that are Merlot based are blended with Cabernet Franc, just ask Chateau Petrus. Left bank Bordeaux are also blended with Cabernet Franc, but to a lesser degree as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot take a starring role. There a number of Bordeaux from the right bank that are primarily Cabernet Franc, but it is hard to find a bottle that is 100% Cabernet Franc. Typically, something is blended in that helps the color, structure and nose of the wine.

In the Loire, in places like Anjou, they blend Cabernet Franc with Cabernet Sauvignon. These are big reds and they have a very earthy taste. The organic red blend from Chateau Passavant is a good example of how an earthy red can be made and priced very reasonably. Chateau Passavant also makes a 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Cabernet Franc Rose that is fruity and very smooth. Many Cabernet Francs can also have a sense of vegetal smell. Some say asparagus and other s say brussels sprouts. When ever you are drinking a red and you get these stemmy, green smells, typically there is Cabernet Franc present. Cabernet Sauvignon has a hint of this as well.

Chinon is considered perhaps ground zero for Cabernet Franc in the Loire Valley. Wines from this area a have a wet, earthy nose, blackberry and cherry aromas coupled with spice and oakiness. One vintage that stands out at a great price is Charles Joguet Cuvee de la Cure  2005. This is a very earthy wine and when paired with a steak, is a match made for any palate.

In California, Cabernet Franc has been growing for a long time and is now just gaining recognition. Cornerstone Winery in Nap makes a Stepping Stone Cabernet Franc. Stepping Stone is 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot. It does not have any of the green characteristics of the French Cabernet Francs. It has a deep, dark blackberry and cherry taste. It might be the best California Cabernet Franc I have ever had. I kept thinking how good would this be with grilled Portobello mushrooms. There was a good acidity and a long finish. With proper storage, cellaring, this is a wine that can gae well.

It is no secret that I like some of the lesser sampled grape types like Malbec and Cabernet Franc. I think it is important to try as many grape types as possible and then as many different styles of the same grape. This helps determine your own taste. Discovering a style or varietal that pleases you is always a fun way to Uncork Happiness.

Cain 5 For Valentines Day, Really

It starts simply enough. You have a few friends over for diner and then decide to do a vertical tasting. The friends brought the appetizers. So we decided that we would start with something white. Not just any white, but a Burgundy. And not just any Burgundy.

We opened the night with 2002 William Fervre Chablis Bourgeois and Fourchames. Both of these regions are renowned for their quality of wine. The Kimmeridigian clay/chalk soil makes these wines very minerally and brings out much of the fruit flavor. The high acidity and use of neutral oak make these a long-lived wine. Just now , they are coming into their own. The long finish and incredibly smooth nature was tempting m e to drink these all night long and with nothing else.

But then we said, okay, it’s Valentines, we need something pink and red. The pink was Oriel Femme Fatale 2007, a mix of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Talk about an amazing Rose. Bordeaux is not really known for Roses produces this gem. It has amazing depth of flavor, strawberry cherry and small hints of cranberry. The dry finish makes this a wine that pairs well with food.

Okay, so what about the food, we had small balls of rice with Fontina cheese inside, hot artichoke dip, lollipop sushi, and one other thing that escapes me. The white and Rose worked well with these items. We then sat down to seared shrimp topped with Kubota squash soap, then red and yellow beat ravioli,crown roast of pork stuffed with wild rice and dried fruit, red currant glazed Cornish game hens, roasted heirloom carrots (yellow, tan, purple) and a few orange ones as well. By the way, orange carrots are relatively a new thing, just  few hundred years old.

For dessert we had chocolate pots du creme with caramel sauce and fresh whipped cream. And fresh strawberries.

But back to the wine. Because the main goal of the night was to do a vertical tasting of cain 5. We were missing a few years, having enjoyed a random bottle or two. So we started at 1999 with a bottle of Cain Cuvee. This is also a red blend from the winery on Spring Mountain. Cain Cuvee is a wine that is made with the juice that does not make it into the Cain 5 or Cain Concept. For a wine that was basically ten plus yeas old, it was very fruit forward with black and red fruit coupled with cinnamon and oak notes. It was a great way to get us in the mood for the main event.

Cain 5 is a wine that is made just like a French Bordeaux, blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Each year the blend changes. We used breathable glass for this as we wanted the wines to decant very rapidly. More on breathable glass later.

We started with the 1992. Lots of Cabernet and Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Interestingly enough, this wine had a lot of fruit and was starting to get a hint of age. But the nose and taste had a lot of green bell pepper. A sort of stemminess from the wine making process. We then moved to the 1994, which was similar in taste and the blend was almost identical.

The big turn came at 1995. Here the fruit was very upfront and the acid was balanced and the oak was very evident.It was smooth like the other wines, and tasted like something special. Then came the 1996. The big change was that the amount of Petit Verdot went from 2-4% in all of the others leapt to 19%. This was a stunning wine. The kind that you wish you had a case of. Unfortunately for us, we had only a single bottle. The luscious black fruit was  tempered by cherry and toasty oak. Wow.

We then jumped to 2001. This was still a young tasting wine. Very fruit forward and loaded with acid. This was a wine that needs a few years to age and will reward the faithful in a few years. We never made it to the 2003, 2004 and 2005. We will save those for another day.

Soon we will go back and try the rest. These wines are incredibly and pair so well with food. Especially the crown roast of pork.

I did want to mention that with dessert, we had some Iron Horse Brut Rose Champagne. This was perfect with the chocolate and the sparkler brought out the tastes of the strawberries as well.

So if you can find a wine you like and start building a library, give it proper cellaring, you too can Uncork Happiness. What an amazing night.

Super (Bowl) Wines

The big game is about an hour away and I have been asked all week: Wine Boy, what are you going to drink during the game? I enjoy big, heavy beers, so a t first I thought a nice dark beer would go down well. But then I said. ” I have a nice collection of wine. Why not use something there.”

So then I thought, “What wine goes with super bowl food?” So many are having Southern themed parties in honor of the New Orléans Saints. But when in Indianapolis, what would a Colt’s fan eat?”

So American themed food it is. But tonight there will be potatoes made a few ways, braised chicken and a vegetable or two. And of course chips and salsa. So this now becomes a challenge much like a Thanksgiving dinner. Red wine with fruit? Spice? Light? Heavy? Cabernet Sauvignon?Zinfandel?

So I think that a big red is order for the big game. I am not sure what it will be. So I am about to put on my miners hat, turn on the little light and see what pops off the  rack. I look forward to hearing from a lot of you to see what wine or beer was enjoyed for the super bowl.

But remember on the first Saturday of May, it is always mint Julips. No Kentucky Derby would be complete without them. So get comfortable on the couch and Uncork some Happiness. I hope your team wins.

Why Proper Wine Storage is Good

Proper Storage is good thing. We were at an event tonight that featured a great number of wines. The best part was, the host had good taste and believed in proper wine storage. They had a nice large temperature controlled wine locker, with shelves of delectable wines.

But what happens when you do no have a temperature controlled unit? The best thing is to find the coolest spot in the house for your wine. First start by finding the middle of the house, preferably down stairs. Typically, the area under the stairs is coolest. If that does not work, then find the coolest spot along a north facing wall.

Be sure that there is little or no light in the selected spot and that there is not much vibration. Vibration stirs up the sediment in the bottle and makes it a bit more difficult to enjoy.

The best thing is to try and keep the wine in the low to mid 50 degrees. And keep the whites on the bottom and the reds on the top. reds can stand a bit more heat and it is always cooler on the bottom part of a cellar. This rule also works for none temperature controlled units and might even be the critical key in wine storage.

There is always the firms that rent storage space, but I have problems not having full access to my collection and spending an extra $1 a month per bottle makes that $20 bottle so much more expensive. I would recommend an off site storage if you have something terribly valuable and  do not want your friends sneaking in drinking that prized bottle.

As for tonight, it is always a great joy to have a wine with a few years of bottle age. The wine coming together and tasting like an integrated whole. My thanks to Gwen Alston and kudos to Bob, a man who knew how to Uncork Happiness.

Didn’t Finish The Bottle?

Occasionally, it happen that we do no finish the bottle we have opened. And that is okay. The wine tends to actaully be better most of the time the next day. And a few reare wines will hold on for a week or more with just the cork stuck in the top.

But if you want to keep a bottle for a few days, the best things to do are the following. And everyone’s home is different. Different light, heat and even the amount of wine remaining in the bottle will effect it’s longevity.

1. Put the cork back in and place the bottle in the refrigerator. That is for both red and white wines. For reds, take it out and let it get back to room temperature before drinking. You can also put it back in the wine cellar as well. The goal is that since the volume of wine is less than a whole bottle, you do not want the air inside the wine to heat up.

2. Suck the air out. Air is both beneficial and damaging to wine. When you open a bottle of wine, air helps soften the tannins and starts to break down the wine. But the process does not stop once a bottle is opened. Air will eventually turn a wine into what could be very expensive vineger. Could for your lettuce, not so greta in a glass. Vacu-vins and other pump devices do the job nicely. Look for the Pulltex.

3. Gas. There are a number of products o the market that you spray into the bottle to kick out the oxygen. These will help a bottle stay a bit fresher longr, but on occasion, you can taste and smell the gas when a bottle is reopened.

4. Cooking with left over wine is always a good thing. When you can add wine to a dish instead of water, flavors are enhanced . The extra dimension of the wine in the dish makes for layers of flavor.

5. Make wine ice cubes. These are easy to make. Save the cubes in a baggie and use them when you cook.

We will save the discussion of the wines that are good for a week or more for  a later blog. So a bottle of wine can be used a day or more. Do not be afraid to Uncork Happiness.

If you have left over

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