Adam Carruth and Carruth Cellars

Adam Carruth is a nice, unassuming guy. He is that neighborhood friend you had growing up . But when you meet him and talk to him, he has one overriding passion: Wine. You would never guess that he owns a winery and makes 17 different wines.

Adam makes a large number of wines in his north San Diego facility at Solana Beach. He buys grapes from all over California and turns them into solid, good wines at very reasonable prices. At California Taste Fine Wine in Laguna Niguel, we just had a tasting with a few of his varietals. The place was packed and mood boisterous.

We started off with his 2007 Lake County red Hills Sauvignon Blanc. This is a lean, crisp wine packed with grapefruit, citrus and lots of acid. A food wine, this Sauvignon Blanc does not scream New Zealand. And that is a good thing. It reflects its California roots with the upfront fruit and the richness that many golden state-wide wines have. A smooth finish with this one.

Next up was the 2007 Barbera. This varietal, originally from Italy, grows well throughout California. This wine hails from Clear Lake and has a rich velvety mouthfeel with plenty of black and red fruit characteristics. Wen you are unsure what to serve with pasta and red sauce or the fully loaded pizza, this is a fun choice. And this wine is low in tannins.

Adam sometimes takes a bit of his wines and makes what he calls “Friends Blend.”  The 2007 blend has Zinfandel, Cabernet , Malbec and Petit Sirah. This is a perfect red table wine and it is another very smooth finishing wine.

Next was the Yolo County Tempranillo. It seems that this spicy finishing wine has become the favorite in the store. One of our employees likes this the day after Thanksgiving with a perfectly made turkey sandwich. As for me, I think the fruit and earthiness are a perfect match to a Chile Relleno. Many would prefer beer, but the red does not amplify the heat of the chili.

Adam goes to Dry Creek in Sonoma for his 2007 Zinfandel. This is not a big, heavy fruit bomb loaded with alcohol. rather it is nice example of a medium bodied wine that has a long finish with those tastes of blackberry and spice that are the hallmarks of a Zinfandel. This is a wine I like to pour at BBQs and with a steak.

Malbec is one of my favorite grapes. I feel I was ahead of the curve on this one, enjoying Malbecs twenty years ago, before most people realized it is grape often used in top Bordeaux. the 2007 Carruth Malbec has an intense fruit flavor and log finish. It is another wine to pair with BBQ or even a slow simmered pot roast. The grapes for his wine come from the St. Olaf vineyard in Lake County. This is the same vineyard that the Barbera comes from.

The 2007 Syrah is another Sonoma wine. Syrah is often overlooked  by wine buyers. This Syrah is big and plummy with a finish of black pepper. Syrah is one of those very food friendly wines, that once you have a good one, memories of Cabernet Sauvignon fade away. Syrah is the next big thing one the wine scene, or so I have been told. People need to get out and try a bottle of Syrah with their favorite meal. It will open the eyes to other possibilities.

The Red Hills of Lake County are covered in grape vines. Some of those are Cabernet Sauvignon, where Adam sources his grapes for his 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. The vines struggle in the volcanic soil and produce wines with blackberries, bing and sour cherry and tobacco/mocha notes. This is a full-bodied red with minimal tannins and a long, smooth finish. The acid and fruit is very well balanced, making this a definite go to Cabernet Sauvignon.

We finished the tasting with Carruth’s 2007 Paso Robles Petit Sirah. This is a rich,dark wine that is good with roasts and osso bucco as well as say a chocolate dessert. Made for the red wine drinker who enjoys a wine that stains the glass, this a big red.

Adam makes a number of other wines including a two different Ports, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and a Nebbiolo. He is also experimenting and vinifying the first ever Flor, a crossing grape from the University of Davis, California. Adam likes his wine., when people enjoy his wine, he says they are Uncorking happiness. Me, I just think they are opening a good bottle of wine.

Cabernet Franc

So many people have gotten into the habit of calling most reds, Cabernet. Not only are there hundreds of red grapes, but in the Cabernet family, there are quite a few as well. But the parent of all Cabernet Sauvignon and their ilk is Cabernet Franc.

It is said that Cabernet Franc was crossed with Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon was born. But dad is still around and asking for a little respect. Cabernet Franc is a major player in the Loire Valley of France and is a major grape in Bordeaux, France as well. Most of the right bank Bordeaux, that is the ones that are Merlot based are blended with Cabernet Franc, just ask Chateau Petrus. Left bank Bordeaux are also blended with Cabernet Franc, but to a lesser degree as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot take a starring role. There a number of Bordeaux from the right bank that are primarily Cabernet Franc, but it is hard to find a bottle that is 100% Cabernet Franc. Typically, something is blended in that helps the color, structure and nose of the wine.

In the Loire, in places like Anjou, they blend Cabernet Franc with Cabernet Sauvignon. These are big reds and they have a very earthy taste. The organic red blend from Chateau Passavant is a good example of how an earthy red can be made and priced very reasonably. Chateau Passavant also makes a 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Cabernet Franc Rose that is fruity and very smooth. Many Cabernet Francs can also have a sense of vegetal smell. Some say asparagus and other s say brussels sprouts. When ever you are drinking a red and you get these stemmy, green smells, typically there is Cabernet Franc present. Cabernet Sauvignon has a hint of this as well.

Chinon is considered perhaps ground zero for Cabernet Franc in the Loire Valley. Wines from this area a have a wet, earthy nose, blackberry and cherry aromas coupled with spice and oakiness. One vintage that stands out at a great price is Charles Joguet Cuvee de la Cure  2005. This is a very earthy wine and when paired with a steak, is a match made for any palate.

In California, Cabernet Franc has been growing for a long time and is now just gaining recognition. Cornerstone Winery in Nap makes a Stepping Stone Cabernet Franc. Stepping Stone is 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot. It does not have any of the green characteristics of the French Cabernet Francs. It has a deep, dark blackberry and cherry taste. It might be the best California Cabernet Franc I have ever had. I kept thinking how good would this be with grilled Portobello mushrooms. There was a good acidity and a long finish. With proper storage, cellaring, this is a wine that can gae well.

It is no secret that I like some of the lesser sampled grape types like Malbec and Cabernet Franc. I think it is important to try as many grape types as possible and then as many different styles of the same grape. This helps determine your own taste. Discovering a style or varietal that pleases you is always a fun way to Uncork Happiness.

Valentines Wines, PArt I

Sunday is Valentines Day (and Chinese New Years) . Both events are followed by Mardi Gras on the 16th. So there are many wine drinking opportunities ahead. But the most important day might be Sunday, with your  sweetie.

The first thing to consider is: What does she like. Chardonnay. Pinot Noir. Syrah. Cabernet Sauvignon. So take note of what she likes to drink and expand from there. Also, chocolate is big on Valentines. Pair it with Petit Verdot or perhaps a juicy Merlot. (For more on red wine and chocolate, see my earlier post).

But today I want to concentrate on two varietals that I think are great for Valentines. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. These two varietals deliver incredible tastes and many varied styles.

Chardonnay is the number one selling varietal in the United States. It can be dry and minerally or fat and creamy and everything in between. Many sommeliers and wine professionals have jumped on the unoaked Chardonnay band wagon. These are wines that are steely and crisp, with lemon/lime overtones. These wines have a light feel and tend to have a long finish as the acid is up front n the wine. They are great to pair with light food dishes such as fish and seafood dinners.

I think that Chardonnay from the heart of Chardonnay country, yes, Burgundy, France fit the bill. Especially Chablis. Because of the unique Kimmeridigian clay/chalk soil, those wines have a minerally feel and great fruit. Aged in neutral oak barrels, these crisp whites have a very unique taste and flavor. Do not mix this up with Gallo Chablis in a large jug. They are very different wines. The jug wine might give you headache, the French wine might give you romance. And if you want to impress your Valentine, go French.

I tend to like Chardonnays that are aged in oak and have aged on their lees. Lees are the yeast and other particulates left over from the vinification, and when stirred up (buttonage) they add that creamy texture to the wine. This is the wine that when paired with boiled or grilled lobster and drawn butter is a match made in well, it is just fantastic. And cooking a lobster is easy. Be sure to get them as fresh as possible. Write me for cooking methods and the incredible grilled lobster with crab stuffing recipe. Topped with saffron beurre blanc.

Same can be said for Pinot Noir. The great red of Burgundy, there are many different styles. This will also go well with fish and seafood a s well as just about anything else. A nice earthy red from Beaune or Pommard is always good. An Oregon Pinot, sure. A fruity one from the Russian River in Sonoma, yes. Santa Rita Hills, New Zealand, Pinot Nero from Italy. You will not go wrong. But there are amazing Pinot Noirs from all over the world. Romania is the third largest Pinot Noir producing country after France and the United States. Do not be afraid to ask your favorite retailer, such as California Taste Fine Wine, for advice on any wine and wine style. Think about a food pairing and what

Pinot Noir is the wine of great triumph and great heart-break, When this thin-skinned, finicky grape is made well, the world is in sync, when it is thin and runny, not so much. And be prepared to pay a bit for a good one. But it is worth it. I could go on for days about these two varietals, but I encourage you  grab a bottle or two and see for yourself. If you have not Uncorked Happiness, we wine retailers have not done our job.

Wine Tasting in Context, Part II

There is never a happier moment when you get to a winery and prepare to sample the wine. You are happy and in a receptive mood for enjoying the experience and learning about the winery.Tasting at a winery is the best way to learn intimate details about the winery and the believes of the winemaker(s).

So let’s start with the wine. typically the tasting is designed to help open your palette. Often, people say they only like red wines and tend to ignore the whites or Roses. That is a huge mistake. Often the whites and Roses highlight a certain grape varietal that might be unique to to the winery. Two cases in point are the Chenin Blanc at Ballantine in Napa Valley. An absolutely incredible wine, value priced. Chenin Blanc, which finds it’s main home in the Loire Valley of France is a very versatile grape. The wine from Ballentine takes the fruit forward nature of California and combines it with the high acidity and finish of a french Chenin. At Mosby winery in Santa Barbara, they specialize in Cal/Ital varietals. One of those is the Cortese grape. Often known as Gavi, this white is the perfect alternative to Chardonnay. Again, here is perfect example of combning the best of California with the best of Italy. So do not skip the whites and Roses.

When at a winery, try to learn about the wine making techniques. The soil and why the winemaker choose to do things a certain way. This were each wine starts to distinguish themselves. A good case n point is Nickel & Nickel. When at the winery, they have tubes that highlight the various soil types of their single vineyard wines. The wines taste so different because of the soil. And of course the angle of the sun on the slopes plays a part as well. Water, that is a long discussion as well.

When at a winery, ask the person behind the bar guide you. And ask questions. There are no dumb questions. But do not fall victim to what I call winery mouth. That is when you have had a few tastes and your taste buds start to go flat, the alcohol is taking effect and everything you taste is really good. So how do fight this effect? Always travel with water and fresh bread in your car. Having a certain thing, for me it is root beer, to help cleanse your palette is also a good thing. And do not forget to eat every so often to help mitigate the effects of the wine. Nothing is more frustrating then coming home and opening a bottle of wine and then saying, “why did I buy this?” Winery Mouth.

If driving in wine country, try and have a designated driver. Nothing would ruin a trip to wine country more than a DUI. And if you are at a winery and cannot drive, ask the person behind the bar to call you a taxi. They are happy to do it.

There is a certain wine buying strategy that should be used when visiting a winery. I will have to assume that you have called and made your appointments for tastings and know a little bit about the wine. So when you are at the winery, buy things on special and winery only bottlings. Often, you can find the flagship wine in a retail location at the same or less price then the winery. Less to carry home, but you the ones you do bring back will be the envy of all of your friends.

The final thing when in wine country to keep in mind is this: when dinning out in wine country, try and order a bottle at dinner that is new. I often try to do this from a winery that we were unable to visit. This is easy as most restaurants feature local wines. This practice makes for a broader tasting experience.

When I am in wine country, I try and go to as many wineries as possible. I do not recommend this for everyone. But I do feel that when in wine country, we want to  try and do as much as possible.

Being in Napa, Sonoma, Paso Robles or even wine tasting in Italy, I find that I get to Uncork (my own) Happiness.

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