International Reds

First, I have to start with the thought that there is a huge world of wine out there. There are so many variatals, it is impossible to name them all. Many wine enthusiats in California think only in terms of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir. It is funny when I ask people if they might like a Zinfandel. The typical response is,”I do not like sweet pink wines.”

But, as we all know, Zinfandel is a fantastic, deep rich red wine. Great with BBQ and strong cheeses.

 When it came to the International Reds Tasting at California Taste Fine Wine in Laguna Niguel, there were a few surprises in the group. The first were the large number of countries that are producing GSM blends. A GSM blend is Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. These grapes all go so well together and have a spicy finish. The combination of plum, cherry, blackberry, tar, tobacco and earthiness and spice make this genre of wine a natural with so many food types.

Sometimes this blendd is found in Cotes du Rhone or other Rhone blends. The traditional home for these grapes are the Rhone Valley in Southern France. Mourvedre or Monastrall as it is known in Spainit’s original home before it migrated east to France. At the tasting was a a Falcata Casa Gran from Valencia, Spain, Yangarra Cadenzia from Mclaren Vale in Australia and a Pic St. Loup from the Languedoc in the south of France. The blends where similar, but each wine was as different from the next as an orange is as different than an apple. I would drink any one of these wines at anytime.

Another wine in the tasting was a German wine from the Pfalz region of Germany. Made by Alfred Bonnet, the Cuvee Bonus was a Trocken, or dry red  comprised of  a blend of Dornfelder and Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir). The first bottle opened was shot and the second was okay. The wine had a very aged look to it, almost brown. But there was still fruit predominate and a lot of acid. Not a favorite at the tasting. And the little bit that was left in the bottle was totally done the next morning.

I have never been a fan of Carmenere or Chilean wines in general. They all seem to have a green taste, like a ripe bell pepper. This is from the grapes perhaps not reaching full ripeness or too much stem, leaves and other things making it into the fermentation vat. But the La Playa Carmenere changed my mind. No green. Just a rich, thick, dried prune, chocolate and cherry taste and nose backed with a hint of toasty oak. What a great wine. A steal at under $10.

Italy was represented with a wine from Sicily. Gulfi Nero D’avola. This is a grape that is getting more popular in United States. It is a high acid wine that plays so well with so many foods. My personal preference for Italian wines showed through with this wine. All I could think about was having this with a nice veal Cannaloni.

Then there was a Pinot Noir from Argentina that was made with Organic Grapes. The Santa Julia wine brand is very solid. The Bonarda is a real winner. The Pinot Noir is very packed with cherry, strawberry and cranberry. Maybe a dark horse for that tofurkey. Graham Beck is another brand to be aware of. This South African winery makes a number of wines including a nice sparkling wine. But this tasting featured the newest vinatge of the Cabernet Sauvignon. With red, sour and black cherry coupled with minerality, blackberry in the finish, this is a fun drinking wine. Glad it is back.

But what was really interesting again is how all of these wines tasted better after being open for a couple of days. I know I have said it before, but on any given night, open two bottles and then come back to each of them the next day or the day after. The reward will be tremendos and the wines smooth and very drinkable. I guess that is how you Uncork Happiness times two!

Adam Carruth and Carruth Cellars

Adam Carruth is a nice, unassuming guy. He is that neighborhood friend you had growing up . But when you meet him and talk to him, he has one overriding passion: Wine. You would never guess that he owns a winery and makes 17 different wines.

Adam makes a large number of wines in his north San Diego facility at Solana Beach. He buys grapes from all over California and turns them into solid, good wines at very reasonable prices. At California Taste Fine Wine in Laguna Niguel, we just had a tasting with a few of his varietals. The place was packed and mood boisterous.

We started off with his 2007 Lake County red Hills Sauvignon Blanc. This is a lean, crisp wine packed with grapefruit, citrus and lots of acid. A food wine, this Sauvignon Blanc does not scream New Zealand. And that is a good thing. It reflects its California roots with the upfront fruit and the richness that many golden state-wide wines have. A smooth finish with this one.

Next up was the 2007 Barbera. This varietal, originally from Italy, grows well throughout California. This wine hails from Clear Lake and has a rich velvety mouthfeel with plenty of black and red fruit characteristics. Wen you are unsure what to serve with pasta and red sauce or the fully loaded pizza, this is a fun choice. And this wine is low in tannins.

Adam sometimes takes a bit of his wines and makes what he calls “Friends Blend.”  The 2007 blend has Zinfandel, Cabernet , Malbec and Petit Sirah. This is a perfect red table wine and it is another very smooth finishing wine.

Next was the Yolo County Tempranillo. It seems that this spicy finishing wine has become the favorite in the store. One of our employees likes this the day after Thanksgiving with a perfectly made turkey sandwich. As for me, I think the fruit and earthiness are a perfect match to a Chile Relleno. Many would prefer beer, but the red does not amplify the heat of the chili.

Adam goes to Dry Creek in Sonoma for his 2007 Zinfandel. This is not a big, heavy fruit bomb loaded with alcohol. rather it is nice example of a medium bodied wine that has a long finish with those tastes of blackberry and spice that are the hallmarks of a Zinfandel. This is a wine I like to pour at BBQs and with a steak.

Malbec is one of my favorite grapes. I feel I was ahead of the curve on this one, enjoying Malbecs twenty years ago, before most people realized it is grape often used in top Bordeaux. the 2007 Carruth Malbec has an intense fruit flavor and log finish. It is another wine to pair with BBQ or even a slow simmered pot roast. The grapes for his wine come from the St. Olaf vineyard in Lake County. This is the same vineyard that the Barbera comes from.

The 2007 Syrah is another Sonoma wine. Syrah is often overlooked  by wine buyers. This Syrah is big and plummy with a finish of black pepper. Syrah is one of those very food friendly wines, that once you have a good one, memories of Cabernet Sauvignon fade away. Syrah is the next big thing one the wine scene, or so I have been told. People need to get out and try a bottle of Syrah with their favorite meal. It will open the eyes to other possibilities.

The Red Hills of Lake County are covered in grape vines. Some of those are Cabernet Sauvignon, where Adam sources his grapes for his 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. The vines struggle in the volcanic soil and produce wines with blackberries, bing and sour cherry and tobacco/mocha notes. This is a full-bodied red with minimal tannins and a long, smooth finish. The acid and fruit is very well balanced, making this a definite go to Cabernet Sauvignon.

We finished the tasting with Carruth’s 2007 Paso Robles Petit Sirah. This is a rich,dark wine that is good with roasts and osso bucco as well as say a chocolate dessert. Made for the red wine drinker who enjoys a wine that stains the glass, this a big red.

Adam makes a number of other wines including a two different Ports, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and a Nebbiolo. He is also experimenting and vinifying the first ever Flor, a crossing grape from the University of Davis, California. Adam likes his wine., when people enjoy his wine, he says they are Uncorking happiness. Me, I just think they are opening a good bottle of wine.

Ice Wine

In honor of the Olympics, it might be appropriate to open a bottle of Ice Wine. Canada produces a lot of wine, especially around the Great Lakes and in the biggest wine region of the country, the Okanagan Valley, right near the Olympic venues.

But the most recognized wines from Canada today are Ice Wines. Produced primarily in the area of the c, these sweet wines are really nature made.

An Ice Wine is a made from grapes that have been left to ripen on the wine for a very long time. Some of the first Eiswines were produced in Germany about 200 years ago. However, it is not until recently that ice wine has really taken off. In Germany, they do not make ice wine every year. The Canadians have indeed perfected the process and make a number of ice wines every year. Some the grapes used are Riesling, Kerner, Chardonnay, Gamay, Merlot and the ever popular Cabernet Franc and Vidal. Just a note about the Vidal grape. Having recently had a still version of Vidal, it tasted like roasted peanuts. It was not good. No finish. But when left to ripen and become extra sweet, the Vidal grape really shines.

When the grapes have a Brix level near 30, that is the a lot of sugar to water ratio, they are left to freeze on the vine. The best are picked in the cold of night, about 3am and immediately pressed. Each grape produces just a few drops. That is why the bottles are small and cost a bit. These wines tend to have a lot of acid which is balanced by the sweetness of the wine. Ice wines are very good with food.

Canada has leapt to the forefront of ice wine production and Inniskillin has become the largest producer in the world. One other producer to watch for is Pellar Estates. There are of course more, but the goal is to find a grape varietal that you like. Be prepared for a sweet, thick, viscous wine.

At California Taste Fine Wine, I am often asked what does one pair with an ice wine. I like to think of it in terms of Sauterne. Toasted almonds, blue cheese, strong flavors. But it does go very nicely with chocolate as well. An open bottle will last a few weeks in the refrigerator. A little of this wine goes a long way.

I also tell people that you need to buy ice wine now. With climate change, the growing conditions are rapidly changing. as wine regions heat up, the grapes do not freeze as much or at all. So look for these wines that are at times called “Nectar of the Gods.”  Discover one of Canada’s great exports and keep watching the Winter Olympics. Uncork some Happiness and root for the home team!

Valentine Wines, Part IV

When it comes to the day of romance, one thing gets mentioned first: Champagne or is it Chocolate. Really, it is Champagne. It can be sweet or dry and is produced from a number of grapes and styles from around the world. The bubbles tickle and delight the senses. Champagne might possible be the best food pairing alcoholic beverage on the planet. Just try a dry one with Sushi.

For me, French Champagne is it. I like the sparkle, the small integrated bubbles that are part of the wine. When you have a still wine and inject carbon dioxide into it, the bubbles are not part of the wine and they are huge. They make the texture of the wine all wrong.

So what about Prosecco and Cava. Both are very nice and have their uses. The Italian Prosecco is really gaining in popularity,both for its easy drinking nature, relatively low alcohol and of course it’s very friendly pricing. Zardetto is a good Prosecco producer. By the way, Prosecco is perhaps the perfect early morning wine with a omlette or perhaps shired eggs. (Shired eggs are baked eggs with cream). And it pairs very well with bagels, cream cheese and smoked salmon.

Spanish Cava is the wonderful sparkling wine primarily from the Penedes region of Spain. That is just south of Barcelona. Made with Xarello, Macebo and Chardonnay primarily, these are very good wines  and value priced as well. The Spanish Cavas have a bold mouthfeel and can be very dry. That makes these a good choice for pairing with earthy and especially spicy food. Cavas can get pricy, but not like the sparklers of France.

And do not forget about Sekt, German sparkling wine.

Tips on storage, opening (always away from people) and pouring to come later.

Sparkling wine is made all over France. I just had a Cremant de Limoux. It was amazing. But it was not Champagne. only those wines coming from the Champagne region can be called Champagne. I also had a sparkling Rose from Burgundy. It was made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes and was fantastic. Light, dry and crisp, it was a perfect way to usher in the new year. Again not a Champagne.

When it comes to actual wines from the Champagne region, I prefer Rose Champagnes. Those are the pink ones. They tend to have a bit more flavor than many others. At least for me. Blanc de Noirs, or those sparkling wines made with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier are also among the tops for me. Many Champagnes, due to their long aging have a biscuity /yeasty taste which I am not fond of. Blanc de Blancs, or Champagnes made from strictly Chardonnay can be very good. One vintner I like is Henriot. They consistently have absolutely incredible bottles. I am also like Krug. But those have become so expensive, I just want to imagine I can still drink them.

The whole idea of Champagne for Valentines is the romantic look and feel of those long tapered glasses, the rising bubbles and longing looks you get from your Valentine. Champagne is probably the most romantic beverage as celebrated in movies and television. But it is also the drink of royalty. And when having a glass or two, you feel rather royal.

A very  long time ago, a friend said that the bubbles went right to her head. She said she loved Champagne and it made her feel free. I like Champagne and it makes me feel happy. Especially when I uncork  it.

Valentines Wines, PArt I

Sunday is Valentines Day (and Chinese New Years) . Both events are followed by Mardi Gras on the 16th. So there are many wine drinking opportunities ahead. But the most important day might be Sunday, with your  sweetie.

The first thing to consider is: What does she like. Chardonnay. Pinot Noir. Syrah. Cabernet Sauvignon. So take note of what she likes to drink and expand from there. Also, chocolate is big on Valentines. Pair it with Petit Verdot or perhaps a juicy Merlot. (For more on red wine and chocolate, see my earlier post).

But today I want to concentrate on two varietals that I think are great for Valentines. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. These two varietals deliver incredible tastes and many varied styles.

Chardonnay is the number one selling varietal in the United States. It can be dry and minerally or fat and creamy and everything in between. Many sommeliers and wine professionals have jumped on the unoaked Chardonnay band wagon. These are wines that are steely and crisp, with lemon/lime overtones. These wines have a light feel and tend to have a long finish as the acid is up front n the wine. They are great to pair with light food dishes such as fish and seafood dinners.

I think that Chardonnay from the heart of Chardonnay country, yes, Burgundy, France fit the bill. Especially Chablis. Because of the unique Kimmeridigian clay/chalk soil, those wines have a minerally feel and great fruit. Aged in neutral oak barrels, these crisp whites have a very unique taste and flavor. Do not mix this up with Gallo Chablis in a large jug. They are very different wines. The jug wine might give you headache, the French wine might give you romance. And if you want to impress your Valentine, go French.

I tend to like Chardonnays that are aged in oak and have aged on their lees. Lees are the yeast and other particulates left over from the vinification, and when stirred up (buttonage) they add that creamy texture to the wine. This is the wine that when paired with boiled or grilled lobster and drawn butter is a match made in well, it is just fantastic. And cooking a lobster is easy. Be sure to get them as fresh as possible. Write me for cooking methods and the incredible grilled lobster with crab stuffing recipe. Topped with saffron beurre blanc.

Same can be said for Pinot Noir. The great red of Burgundy, there are many different styles. This will also go well with fish and seafood a s well as just about anything else. A nice earthy red from Beaune or Pommard is always good. An Oregon Pinot, sure. A fruity one from the Russian River in Sonoma, yes. Santa Rita Hills, New Zealand, Pinot Nero from Italy. You will not go wrong. But there are amazing Pinot Noirs from all over the world. Romania is the third largest Pinot Noir producing country after France and the United States. Do not be afraid to ask your favorite retailer, such as California Taste Fine Wine, for advice on any wine and wine style. Think about a food pairing and what

Pinot Noir is the wine of great triumph and great heart-break, When this thin-skinned, finicky grape is made well, the world is in sync, when it is thin and runny, not so much. And be prepared to pay a bit for a good one. But it is worth it. I could go on for days about these two varietals, but I encourage you  grab a bottle or two and see for yourself. If you have not Uncorked Happiness, we wine retailers have not done our job.

Wine Tasting, Part III

It is a cold, blustery night. What better time than to go to  a local wine retailer for a sampling of wine. These types of events are the best way to hone your taste. I tell people everyday that the best way to learn about wine is to go as many wine tastings as possible. The best thing about going to a wine store wine tasting is that the store owner or wine buyer has had an opportunity to try hundreds of wines.

This means the store has brought in what they feel are the best wines for their customers based on taste, value and what the local market enjoys.I personally try hundreds of wines,some weeks the number gets to be a bit much, but I look for those very things. I think about a taste to value ratio. And when I plan a wine tasting in my store, I keep those things in mind.

A retail store can offer the both the experience ad new wine drinker opportunities to try things they might never get to do. Such as pairing Zinfandels from around the world or a survey of Pinot Noir. The goal is that these tastings are highlighting wines that are in the store and available for purchase. It is like buying a car. You are taking the wines for a test drive.

But more importantly, you are developing your own personal taste. You do not have to like every wine in the line-up, but here is the opportunity to find a wine or style that you do enjoy. That knowledge, gained over a number of tastings means that you will no longer bring home a bottle of wine that you deem to be marginal. The knowledge gained at tastings give you a baseline for wines and styles you like. This information can then be used by a smart and knowledgeable retailer to help guide you to a wine that will surprise and amaze you. And no, the more expensive the bottle does not necessarily indicate greater quality. I won’t name names, Opus One.

So go to your local retailer and try as much wine as possible. Do ask questions and help define your own personal taste. Retail wine stores want to help. And look for the small wine retailer. Large stores box stores tend to purchase from a corporate list. They miss those wines that say, only 50 cases were produced. And ask questions. There are no stupid questions.

In my store, California Taste Fine Wine, we offer at least two themed tastings a week. Fridays at 6pm and Saturdays at 4pm. It  is fun to compare and contrast wines. There is always a surprise or two. The most shocking thing is that a wine that is grand on it’s own sometimes does not match well or taste as good when pitted against others in the same category. Once in a while it is placement in the line up.

The lineup is important as it is designed to have the wines that will put the “smack down” on you taste buds are usually at the end. A good in store tasting builds to a climax with the last two or three wines.

The other thing about retail store wine tastings is that the retailer will usually know all about the wine. So you can gain a a deeper understanding of the bottle as each bottle has it’s own story to tell. And if you like it and take it home to share with family and friends, you can tell the story as you Uncork Happiness.

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