Vinspelunking

I know that you may never have heard of the term Vinspelunking. It is the idea that you are exploring your or others wine caves, looking for hidden treasure. In this case, hidden bottles. Forgotten treasures. It is a great way to relive some magical wine moments.

The tools needed to Vinspelunk are these: Corkscrew, wine glass(es) and maybe a candle. There are always a few cups and a cork screw or two in our wine cellar.

As someone who is in the business of selling wines, (California Taste Fine Wine, Laguna Niguel), I am often asked when is it time to drink a certain bottle. I too am asking myself this very question. I was recently rearranging things in the home cellar and came across a few bottles that I totally did not remember owning.

One of those was a bottle of Roussane from Reverie Winery on Diamond Mountain in Napa Valley. It is the 2005 vintage and now I am going to open it in the next few days and hope that it is okay. It seems a bit aged. It is a little dark, with hints of oxidation. Too bad it was not a screw top bottle. Screw top bottles can be stored or cellared in any position. I call that fool proof cellaring. The only concern is light, heat and vibration. The Rousanne was cellared, but not properly. It was standing up in a box. My bad.

It seems the concern is more about White Wine, Champagne and Rose. Finding an older red wine such as a Nebbiolo (Barolo, Barbaresco etc), Cabernet or Bordeaux is not so troublesome. Many of the reds have mellowed out and are drinking so well. Interestingly enough, a few of the white wines taste better with a little age on them. Especially the white Burgundies and Chablis from the 2002 vintage.

This experience has taught me that if you have a wine collection, you need to make at least two trips into the depths of the cellar a week. Vinspelunking can be a fun activity. It will be shocking what you might find. Uncork some of your own happiness.

 

 

Adam Carruth and Carruth Cellars

Adam Carruth is a nice, unassuming guy. He is that neighborhood friend you had growing up . But when you meet him and talk to him, he has one overriding passion: Wine. You would never guess that he owns a winery and makes 17 different wines.

Adam makes a large number of wines in his north San Diego facility at Solana Beach. He buys grapes from all over California and turns them into solid, good wines at very reasonable prices. At California Taste Fine Wine in Laguna Niguel, we just had a tasting with a few of his varietals. The place was packed and mood boisterous.

We started off with his 2007 Lake County red Hills Sauvignon Blanc. This is a lean, crisp wine packed with grapefruit, citrus and lots of acid. A food wine, this Sauvignon Blanc does not scream New Zealand. And that is a good thing. It reflects its California roots with the upfront fruit and the richness that many golden state-wide wines have. A smooth finish with this one.

Next up was the 2007 Barbera. This varietal, originally from Italy, grows well throughout California. This wine hails from Clear Lake and has a rich velvety mouthfeel with plenty of black and red fruit characteristics. Wen you are unsure what to serve with pasta and red sauce or the fully loaded pizza, this is a fun choice. And this wine is low in tannins.

Adam sometimes takes a bit of his wines and makes what he calls “Friends Blend.”  The 2007 blend has Zinfandel, Cabernet , Malbec and Petit Sirah. This is a perfect red table wine and it is another very smooth finishing wine.

Next was the Yolo County Tempranillo. It seems that this spicy finishing wine has become the favorite in the store. One of our employees likes this the day after Thanksgiving with a perfectly made turkey sandwich. As for me, I think the fruit and earthiness are a perfect match to a Chile Relleno. Many would prefer beer, but the red does not amplify the heat of the chili.

Adam goes to Dry Creek in Sonoma for his 2007 Zinfandel. This is not a big, heavy fruit bomb loaded with alcohol. rather it is nice example of a medium bodied wine that has a long finish with those tastes of blackberry and spice that are the hallmarks of a Zinfandel. This is a wine I like to pour at BBQs and with a steak.

Malbec is one of my favorite grapes. I feel I was ahead of the curve on this one, enjoying Malbecs twenty years ago, before most people realized it is grape often used in top Bordeaux. the 2007 Carruth Malbec has an intense fruit flavor and log finish. It is another wine to pair with BBQ or even a slow simmered pot roast. The grapes for his wine come from the St. Olaf vineyard in Lake County. This is the same vineyard that the Barbera comes from.

The 2007 Syrah is another Sonoma wine. Syrah is often overlooked  by wine buyers. This Syrah is big and plummy with a finish of black pepper. Syrah is one of those very food friendly wines, that once you have a good one, memories of Cabernet Sauvignon fade away. Syrah is the next big thing one the wine scene, or so I have been told. People need to get out and try a bottle of Syrah with their favorite meal. It will open the eyes to other possibilities.

The Red Hills of Lake County are covered in grape vines. Some of those are Cabernet Sauvignon, where Adam sources his grapes for his 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. The vines struggle in the volcanic soil and produce wines with blackberries, bing and sour cherry and tobacco/mocha notes. This is a full-bodied red with minimal tannins and a long, smooth finish. The acid and fruit is very well balanced, making this a definite go to Cabernet Sauvignon.

We finished the tasting with Carruth’s 2007 Paso Robles Petit Sirah. This is a rich,dark wine that is good with roasts and osso bucco as well as say a chocolate dessert. Made for the red wine drinker who enjoys a wine that stains the glass, this a big red.

Adam makes a number of other wines including a two different Ports, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and a Nebbiolo. He is also experimenting and vinifying the first ever Flor, a crossing grape from the University of Davis, California. Adam likes his wine., when people enjoy his wine, he says they are Uncorking happiness. Me, I just think they are opening a good bottle of wine.

Valentines Wines, Part II, Italy

For me, I get excited about Italian wines. Barolo, Brunello, a nice Gavi. These wines get me excited. Italy is special for me. I spent the majority of my honeymoon there. I have always loved the wine.

In college, I drank copious amounts of Valpolicella from the Veneto. It was about $3 a bottle and tasted great. It got you happier faster than beer. But the real reason I like Italian wine is the at there are so many grapes and varieties that you can go your whole life and try them all.

For those of you who like Chardonnay, the best alternative I have found is Gavi. Made from the Cortese grape in Piedmont, Italy, this is a serious white wine with lush flavors of melon, citrus and minerality/stone. It goes great with so many dishes it is crazy. So if you are planning on a light pasta, this might be the wine for you. Mosby winery in Santa Barbara is making an exceptional Cortese. Other white also might include Vernaccia from Tuscany or Verdicchio from the Marche. These whites are all great examples of Italian white wines. The country does flow in a sea of Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano and other whites, but try these and see if they  do not make for a great dinner wine.

But it is the red wines that really shine. I mentioned the big boys, but there are other great reds such as Pignolo, Aglianico and Dolcetto. These are all big, jammy, juicy reds that have a big mouthfeel and a pleasing flavor.

I have had a number of super Tuscans. Those are the wines that are blended from French Bordeaux varietals and Sangiovese. I think that some of those wines are some of the best examples of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and other blends I have had. There is a certain earthiness to a Ornellia and Sassicia that scream old world. But the fruit is very ripe and loaded with flavor. These are the wines that are best paired with slow roasted chunk of wild boar, bathed in Tomato sauce and topped with olives. Very traditional. Very good.

But I have to confess, I like the reds of Piedmont with extreme prejudice. Barbera, Dolcetto, And all versions of Nebbiolo. These are wines of high acidity, decent fruit and a very long finish. Back to the acidity thing again.

So here is the thought. Go to your local market and get some Arborio rice ad make some Risotto. Roast a duck. Make a cherry  sauce. Make an Arugula salad. Open a Barolo and let it gentle breathe in a decanter for a few hours. Make sure there is good Parmesan cheese on hand. Light a candle. This is the type of meal that will lead to a night of romance.

This is just the tip of the Italian thoughts. As the year progresses, I will dive deep into the wines of Italy and share some tastes and thoughts. In the meantime, if you need any help with this, email me or stop in at California Taste Fine Wine and ask me a question or two.

Be sure to get something to share on Sunday. Uncork Happiness.

The Mighty Nebbiolo

It is no secret that wines from Piedmont, Italy find their way to me quite often. I just celebrated a birthday and decided to raid the cellar for a few gems. Some will get discussed later, but for now, we are going to concentrate on the Nebbiolos that I had this week.

When most people think of red wines from Piedmont, they think of Barolo. Known by many as the King of Italian wines (Brunello would be the queen), this is a very acidic, tannic and longed lived red. Or so I thought. We had pulled a 1979 Barolo out of the cellar and tried it Tuesday. It was drinkable, but it had lost it’s fruit and much of everything else. It was basically over the hill and I suspect poor storage was to blame. It was a part of a lot of wines that I purchased in Bellagio, Italy a few years back and had shipped state side. It was lacking just about everything. Conversely, I had a bottle of 1999 Pira Vigna Rionda Barolo last night that was just stunning. It was perhaps the favorite of the group I was with at dinner, eating some veal tortellini.

What is amazing about the Nebbiolo grape is that each little village or commune has its own special reputation. Also known as Spanna in the region, we an also thank the grape is being Barbaresco, Ghemme and a few other small wines with geographic distinction. And remember, this grape produces wines with a decidedly orange hue.

One of those areas  with distinction is Gattinara. And as part of the shipment, I had a 1958 and a 1961 shipped back. About three years ago, we attempted to drink the ’58. It was gone. It had a secondary fermentation going on and was lacking any fruit or anything actually associated with wine. On the other hand, we just opened the 1961. The wine was a deep pink/tawny and had incredible fruit and acid structure. The tannins were fading, but hey were still in evidence. This was a very rare treat to have a wine with this much distinction and character after 40 years. The manufacturer was Castello di Lozzolo. I am not sure this winery still exists, but what an amazing wine.It still has the actual dust on it from the Italian cellar. Totally cool.

We also knocked back a 1999 Ghemme. It to is a Nebbiolo based wine and it too was spectacular. The real surprise was that the 1997 Brunello, which was very good, was not as exciting as the Nebbiolos. Know wonder there is animosity between Piedmont and Tuscany. Tuscany is home to Brunello).

I will say this a few times. Work now on collecting wines that can age from your birth year. The sooner you start, the less expensive it will be. And think of the kids and their birth years as well. I do recommend discussing it with a wine retailer such as myself at California Taste Fine Wine have yet to discuss the rest of the birthday wines. But the goal is to have friends over, share and Uncork Happiness.

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