1979 Mouton Rothschild

I am a lucky person. Recently I was invited to a party in the lovely north San Diego County town of Julian. The party, in honor of friends mother’s birthday, was a blast. Too bad it was 98 degrees that day.

On the drive from Laguna Niguel to Julian, Kim and I discovered that there are 17 wineries in the Ramona Valley. Many of them are growing and producing good wine. The irony of the trip was that of the four tasting rooms visited, we did not like a single Cabernet Sauvignon. The star was Syrah and Merlot. More on this later.

Because of the unplanned tastings, we arrived at the party well after it had started. We barely had a chance to get a plate of food as the caterers were cleaning up.

We ate, visited and all of a sudden our hostess, Ida said, try this wine. “I know you are into wine, you might enjoy this.” Ida told us the story of how she and her husband had bought the wine celebrating their daughters birth year. They bought a case, which in 1981, when the wine was released, cost about $200. For a first growth Bordeaux from Pauillac, no less. The wine has been stored properly and Ida said that since her daughter is not going to get married, she might as well enjoy the wine. She has a few bottles left.

The wine was earthy. It had a nose of stewed fruit and figs. There were slight hints of cherry and definitely tar on the nose. The wine was just beginning to lose its red color as it slowly goes to a dark, brickish color. The tannins were very soft, but the experience was incredible. The acid, earth and lingering fruit stayed with you for quite a long time. It is interesting that lately, as we have opened older wines at California Taste Fine Wine, many customers say the older wines are flat. That they lack fruit. But that is what happens as a wine ages. The fruit does die down a bit and those secondary flavors and tastes come to the front. And we constantly get asked about how long this wine can be cellared.

When drinking a 31 year old wine,what you are left with is a very smooth, supple and delicate wine. Those french know how to make a long lasting wine. Something to remember and a big thanks to Ida.

Now that is Uncorking Happiness.

Tuscan Wine and Movie Night

It is rare to have a chance to drink some high quality Italian wine. But I was afford the opportunity this weekend. And what wines they were.

I have always felt that Italian wine is perfect for any meal. Sunday, at our friend’s house, we had some roasted tri-tip, a salad and brie and basil ravioli. So we had tow bottles to enjoy with the meal.

The first was the 2003 Altessimo Brunello. Brunello, a clone of Sangiovese, comes from a small town in Tuscany. Made in limited quantities, Brunello is often considered the queen of Italian wine. (People thing Barolo is the King of Italian Wines) This bottle was no exception. Bright cherry, black cherry, nutmeg and toasty oak greeted the nose. The wine was ultra smooth./ The tannins were muted. It went down so well. We decanted the wine in breathable glass decanter. We could not wait a few hours for the wine to soften. I kept thinking about my brief visit to Tuscany and the smell of the wine and the soil was taking me back there.

This bottle was a highly rated wine and top wine from the very hot vintage of 2003.

But then we opened bottle number two. A 2000 Tiganello. This is one of the top super Tuscans made. A blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.  These wines are now becoming the most valuable wines of Italy. This was a deep red, thick rich wine that when I think about french Bordeaux, this wine is truly got more going for it. I like Bordeaux, but when drinking something like this, the intensity is almost overwhelming. This wine had just about everything right going for it.

Made by Antinori, Tiganello is one of the classic examples of the art of blending non-Italian varietals that are grown in Italy. There are a number of Super Tuscans to look for. And they seem to age very well with proper cellaring.

We were only sad that we had the one bottle. But the experience was worth it. And the Cannolis and pot du creme was a nice way to end the night.

The whole night was themed around watching Angels and Demons. It was fun to see parts of Rome and remember the plazas, statues and fountains. So plan a theme a night with some food and wine. fun will be had by all. That is how we uncork happiness.

Napa Reds the Next Day

It is not often that I say I love a certain wine tasting, but that was just the case this last Friday. We featured a few boutique wines from Napa and one solid Cabernet Sauvignon from Stags Leap district. All of the wines were big reds. The few I got to sample the day after the tasting were even better.

Which brings me to a slight digression. I am finding more and more that the wines in our tastings typically taste better on day two than day one. At California Taste Fine Wine, we do not decant that often before a tasting. The thinking goes, that if we are going to sell a bottle of wine, we like to have it just as you would at home. You are going to open and then just pour yourself a glass. That is kind of how we want to do the tastings. We want to mimic the home experience.

But Friday, these wines were all so good. We started with the Cornerstone Stepping Stone Cabernet Franc. I wrote a bit about the wine earlier (See my Cabernet Franc Post). Suffice to say, this was an excellent wine to start a tasting with. Then came the 2006 Clos du Val Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. This is actually a blend of a few wines, much like a Bordeaux. The trick with Clos du Val is to let them age a few years. The rewards are immense. This is a solid bottle of wine, with lots of black and red fruit and a long finish. The idea is to stock up and put a few into the cellar. Go back to the older vintages while you wait. At least that is what I do. And I recently had a 1981 Clos du Val Cabernet that was drinking beautifully.

We also tasted the Boyd 2006 Big Ranch Cuvee. This is a blend of 40% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and  15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Syrah. This is a big, luscious red blend that lingers. Aged in oak, they only made 325 cases. So this is one to collect.

We opened the Modis Operandi 2007 Vicarious Red. The tasters really liked this wine and this is another sudo Bordeaux blend were one of the grapes is Syrah. This is one of those wines that lingering in the head and on the tongue. Big fruit and a long finish. Again one of those low production wines. Only 12 barrels produced.

Hope and Grace 2006 Napa Cabernet was at first just okay. But on day two, it was absolutely incredible. The wine unwound to a lush nose of violets and Cassis, coupled with Oak and blackberry. Wow! Totally unexpected and quite a treat. And so smooth.

The JR 2005 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon was yet another sleeper. The first night, the wine should the dark fruit and a hint of the famous Rutherford dust. Rutherford dust is a special earthiness that wines get in a special are of Napa. There is an alluvial fan of dirt, dust, stone and gravel that spread out eastward from Mt. St. Helena after an eruption many thousands of years ago. Wines grown in this region have a very distinct taste. There are a few areas in Chile that are similar, but a Rutherford Cabernet is a very tasty thing. On day two, this wine was in full swing. If you like Napa Cabernets, this wine would be at the top of your list.

We finished the tasting with the Cornerstone 2005 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Only 500 cases were produced of this black beauty. It is a very concentrated wine with plum, cherry and mocha. This was a very smooth wine and on day two, it was absolutely spectacular.

I have often thought that there are amazing values in the $30-$60 range of wines out of Napa. These wines certainly prove that point. But what I am really discovering is that so many wines are tasting better the second day. So now I think I need to open two bottles at once. I need to enjoy half of each and wait for the rewards that come with drinking the wines on day two.

And yes, this is indeed happening with a number of whites as well. You will have to experiment for yourself, but the journey is well worth it. Ask your local retailer for help in finding these boutique wines. Great reds from premier wine areas such as Napa do not have to cost $100 or more. Value is what tastes good and delivers. These wines did just that.

So think like me and open two at once. Swirl them around your mouth and enjoy as they go down like silk. Then cork them as you save save some of each for the next day. Let me know if I am not absolutely correct.  If you cannot wait, decant or use breathable glass. So now you are Uncorking Happiness, times two.

Cabernet Franc

So many people have gotten into the habit of calling most reds, Cabernet. Not only are there hundreds of red grapes, but in the Cabernet family, there are quite a few as well. But the parent of all Cabernet Sauvignon and their ilk is Cabernet Franc.

It is said that Cabernet Franc was crossed with Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon was born. But dad is still around and asking for a little respect. Cabernet Franc is a major player in the Loire Valley of France and is a major grape in Bordeaux, France as well. Most of the right bank Bordeaux, that is the ones that are Merlot based are blended with Cabernet Franc, just ask Chateau Petrus. Left bank Bordeaux are also blended with Cabernet Franc, but to a lesser degree as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot take a starring role. There a number of Bordeaux from the right bank that are primarily Cabernet Franc, but it is hard to find a bottle that is 100% Cabernet Franc. Typically, something is blended in that helps the color, structure and nose of the wine.

In the Loire, in places like Anjou, they blend Cabernet Franc with Cabernet Sauvignon. These are big reds and they have a very earthy taste. The organic red blend from Chateau Passavant is a good example of how an earthy red can be made and priced very reasonably. Chateau Passavant also makes a 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Cabernet Franc Rose that is fruity and very smooth. Many Cabernet Francs can also have a sense of vegetal smell. Some say asparagus and other s say brussels sprouts. When ever you are drinking a red and you get these stemmy, green smells, typically there is Cabernet Franc present. Cabernet Sauvignon has a hint of this as well.

Chinon is considered perhaps ground zero for Cabernet Franc in the Loire Valley. Wines from this area a have a wet, earthy nose, blackberry and cherry aromas coupled with spice and oakiness. One vintage that stands out at a great price is Charles Joguet Cuvee de la Cure  2005. This is a very earthy wine and when paired with a steak, is a match made for any palate.

In California, Cabernet Franc has been growing for a long time and is now just gaining recognition. Cornerstone Winery in Nap makes a Stepping Stone Cabernet Franc. Stepping Stone is 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot. It does not have any of the green characteristics of the French Cabernet Francs. It has a deep, dark blackberry and cherry taste. It might be the best California Cabernet Franc I have ever had. I kept thinking how good would this be with grilled Portobello mushrooms. There was a good acidity and a long finish. With proper storage, cellaring, this is a wine that can gae well.

It is no secret that I like some of the lesser sampled grape types like Malbec and Cabernet Franc. I think it is important to try as many grape types as possible and then as many different styles of the same grape. This helps determine your own taste. Discovering a style or varietal that pleases you is always a fun way to Uncork Happiness.

Ice Wine

In honor of the Olympics, it might be appropriate to open a bottle of Ice Wine. Canada produces a lot of wine, especially around the Great Lakes and in the biggest wine region of the country, the Okanagan Valley, right near the Olympic venues.

But the most recognized wines from Canada today are Ice Wines. Produced primarily in the area of the c, these sweet wines are really nature made.

An Ice Wine is a made from grapes that have been left to ripen on the wine for a very long time. Some of the first Eiswines were produced in Germany about 200 years ago. However, it is not until recently that ice wine has really taken off. In Germany, they do not make ice wine every year. The Canadians have indeed perfected the process and make a number of ice wines every year. Some the grapes used are Riesling, Kerner, Chardonnay, Gamay, Merlot and the ever popular Cabernet Franc and Vidal. Just a note about the Vidal grape. Having recently had a still version of Vidal, it tasted like roasted peanuts. It was not good. No finish. But when left to ripen and become extra sweet, the Vidal grape really shines.

When the grapes have a Brix level near 30, that is the a lot of sugar to water ratio, they are left to freeze on the vine. The best are picked in the cold of night, about 3am and immediately pressed. Each grape produces just a few drops. That is why the bottles are small and cost a bit. These wines tend to have a lot of acid which is balanced by the sweetness of the wine. Ice wines are very good with food.

Canada has leapt to the forefront of ice wine production and Inniskillin has become the largest producer in the world. One other producer to watch for is Pellar Estates. There are of course more, but the goal is to find a grape varietal that you like. Be prepared for a sweet, thick, viscous wine.

At California Taste Fine Wine, I am often asked what does one pair with an ice wine. I like to think of it in terms of Sauterne. Toasted almonds, blue cheese, strong flavors. But it does go very nicely with chocolate as well. An open bottle will last a few weeks in the refrigerator. A little of this wine goes a long way.

I also tell people that you need to buy ice wine now. With climate change, the growing conditions are rapidly changing. as wine regions heat up, the grapes do not freeze as much or at all. So look for these wines that are at times called “Nectar of the Gods.”  Discover one of Canada’s great exports and keep watching the Winter Olympics. Uncork some Happiness and root for the home team!

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.